 ON THE MENU IN MYRTLE BEACH:Louis's at Pawley's
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PAWLEYS ISLAND, S.C. (Dec. 30, 2002)-- Myrtle Beach never will be confused with San Francisco or Chicago when it comes to fine dining. But Louis's at Pawley's recent "Best of 2002" ranking from Esquire Magazine brings some much overdo recognition to a restaurant scene that has nothing to be ashamed of.
The new South Strand eatery was one of 19 restaurants included on the popular men's magazine's list published in the November issue. Owners Louis and Marlene Osteen have created a unique niche with their creative adaptations of traditional Lowcountry fare. The culinary couple have had restaurants included in Esquire's rankings twice before: Louis's Charleston Grill in 1989, and Louis's Restaurant and Bar in 1998.
"It's exciting," Louis Osteen told the Sun News. "There are not many restaurants on the list. To get in, to be one, that is great."
The Osteens sold both of their award-winning Charleston restaurants before returning to Pawleys Island. The couple operated a restaurant here in the early 80s out of the same building that now houses Louis's at Pawley's - proof that you can go home again.
"It's always better the second time around," Louis Osteen said. "It's one of life's truisms."
One visit to Louis's and it's easy to see what Esquire travel correspondent John Mariani dug about the Osteen's new digs. Mariani sampled 15-20 items from the menu this summer and zeroed in on the fried clams and baby flounder. A favorite dish among locals is the shrimp and grits platter, and the beer braised collard greens are sure to satisfy even the most stalwart Southerner.
The Osteen's reverence for the Lowcountry is reflected in the décor of both the main restaurant and the adjacent Fish Camp Bar. The cozy pine walls are actually refinished boards recovered from the Waccamaw River, the bricks in the floors were also recovered from the river bottom, and the ceiling timbers and fireplace mantles are from local plantations.
While the plantation-style house approaches a perfect fusion of Southern comfort and Sunday-best formality, the Osteens have a couple other projects in the works. They plan to build a roof over the outdoor deck and refurbish the outdoor bar. The existing indoor bar - the aforementioned Fish Camp - features a creative menu of its own, including a "Proper New Orleans Oyster Poor Boy," a shrimp and mushroom burger on a potato roll, and a Lowcountry staple, She Crab Soup.
Louis's at Pawley's is located in the historic Hammock Shops just of U.S. 17, about 20 minutes south of Myrtle Beach. Louis's "Upstairs" section is available for wedding receptions, private parties and bridal showers. Call (843) 237-8757 for reservations or more information.
A bit(e) of Southern Italy in the South Strand
Pacino's tiny storefront façade in Garden City Beach belies what waits behind its front door: an authentic Southern Italian dining experience that goes beyond the checkered table cloth experience in terms of atmosphere and service, but retains a sensible affordability that keeps it among the most frequented eateries in this sleepy South Strand beach town.
The dining area is either tiny or intimate (depending on your feeling about small rooms) and is painted a deep red color that lends a certain warmth to the experience. Small, white-clothed tables are scattered around the room and an attentive, dedicated wait staff makes its way around with salads, bread, and carafes of wine. As is the case with many good Italian joints, a good chunk of the hired help appears to be family.
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The menu contains all the items you would expect from a traditional, Southern Italian kitchen. The spaghetti with meatballs, lasagna, chicken parmigian and fettuccine are all tasty options and come heaped in generous portions. If the folks at Pacino's can claim to be experts in any one area, it would have to be veal. Seven different entrees are available, ranging from popular selections like veal parmigian and piccata to lesser known dishes like veal positano (artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes, lemon and garlic, and Romano (fresh basil, tomatoes, garlic and Romano cheese).
Pacino's also caters to the lunch crowd with pizza and hot and cold sub offerings. The usual suspects are all accounted for, including meatball subs, sausage and peppers and chicken parmigiana. One note on the pizza - if you order a pie for dinner, expect to wait 30-40 minutes. Pacino's is ill-equipped for large scale pizza productions and the kitchen houses an oven that's the size of a residential microwave.
If You Go
Louis's at Pawley's - 10880 Ocean Highway (U.S. 17), (843) 237-8757, Price range: $10 to $20
Pacino's Italian Restaurant - 3103 U.S. 17 South, (843) 651-0532, Price range: $6 - $17.95
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