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True, it's a fair piece from the beach, way back there in the swampy woods of Conway, so you can forget about beach cool. You're more likely to see farmers out here than girls in bikinis. But, the Witch is about as wild an experience as you can get in Myrtle Beach outside of a strip club.

The Witch makes its way nonchalantly through woods dark and deep, with ominous sounds emanating from the swamp, like the full-throated throb of the male bullfrog in heat. On one recent round alone, my group spotted five alligators, one of them an eight-footer, an eagle and all sorts of other critters.

Some of the rides between holes are adventures in themselves. More than 4,000 feet of bridges takes you through classic, Southern backwater swamps ? virtually undisturbed wetlands, to use the modern term. Houses and condos are nowhere to intrude.

"I don't think there's a course in Myrtle Beach this far out in the woods," said Tom Perry, a Myrtle Beach golf packager.

And then you play the back nine. Talk about night and day.

The Witch Golf Links - WildlifeYou emerge from the Animal Kingdom on No. 10 to find the spectacle of cars zooming by on Highway 544 and the nearby racket of convenience stores. After your wilderness trek, the hubbub of civilization is a little startling.

Don't fret, it doesn't last long. By No. 13, the course turns away from the noise and transports you back to rural South Carolina.

The Witch isn't just about the South Carolina wilds. It's a very playable, parkland course with tree-lined fairways, good elevation, tricky greens and an excellent array of challenges.

"I had a lot of high expectations," said Randy Cox, after playing the course for the first time. "It exceeded those and more."

The verdict

There are those who say courses should be judged on how many holes you can remember afterward. The Witch has more than its share.

The Witch Golf Links FairwayNo. 9, a 376-yard par 4, has a short marsh carry off the tee, but more importantly, the green sits at a left angle to the fairway, so your drive must be accurate both in terms of length and distance, lest you won't have a view of the green.

The green is long and narrow ? though it's deeper than it looks ? and sits sideways to the fairway, guarded by another marsh. This is a tough hole that requires two excellent shots to have a chance at birdie or, more likely, par.

The par-4 15th is a tough driving hole. You have to wrap it around the trees to the left to a blind landing area. Careful, because big hitters will reach the marsh if they get the roll over the hump; the smart play here is a fairway wood to the crest of the hill, followed by an approach downhill over marsh. With the pin in the back right, there is precious little green to work with.

The course is in excellent condition, and the greens have a variety of interesting slopes, though little undulation.

Stay and play

The Comfort Suites on Frontage Road is a great place to stay at Myrtle Beach, particularly if you're on a fairly long trip here and need to get to a variety of courses.

It's located at the intersection of the Highway 17 bypass and 501, so you can go north, south, east or west with relative ease, while bypassing the busy part of 17.

Dining out

The options are more endless than the golf courses, everything from fast food to fine dining.

For a treat, try Martinis in North Myrtle Beach. It's a piano bar that is said to get rowdy at night. Try the filet mignon with shrimp, with the best sauce I've had on the Grand Strand. It's a local hangout that's been through a number of changes over the years and keeps coming back. I hope it stays the way it is.

Fast fact

The Witch is a Dan Maples design, 6,702 yards from the back tees.

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