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They go above and beyond in service here, with white-gloved caddie masters, woefully misclad for the weather, washing your clubs, even shining your shoes. It's like a Myrtle Beach time capsule, except in color.

Pine Lakes calls itself "The Grandaddy," the oldest course on the Grand Strand, which is saying something since there are more than 100 courses on the Strand. Sports Illustrated was founded here in 1954, and for that we can all be thankful.

The 62-room antebellum club sits gleaming white like a come-alive post card from another era. There's occasionally hot chocolate on the first tee when it's cold, and mimosas when it's hot. A gregarious man named "Dog" serves clam chowder at No. 7. Azaleas bloom in the spring and there's rocking chairs on the porch.

This is old-time Carolina living, back when the word gracious wasn't an anomaly here in thoroughly modern Myrtle Beach. Of course, there were other words around then that are better left unsaid. But, what must be said is that Pine Lakes is a different Myrtle Beach experience.

For one thing, there are hardly any houses on the course. Repeat: precious few houses. In an area where golf courses are being bulldozed to make way for relentless development, it almost comes as a shock.

"I love the fact there are hardly any houses," said Casey Storm of Charlotte. "Most courses are so cluttered these days."

"One of the few left in Myrtle Beach that doesn't have houses all over it," said Assistant Professional Matthew Rubano.

No clutter at Pine Lakes. Only the tall, scattered - and old - pine trees on a course dotted with small lakes and ponds. It's a picturesque course, with an open, airy feel.

Even after an October overseeding, the greens were in good shape, if a bit slow, and the fairways just short of lush. They don't overdo the landscaping here and the purple flowers add some color to the fall drabness.

The course was designed by a Scot named Robert White, who was the first president of the PGA of America; there's a plaque in his honor at the No. 1 tee box, calling him the "Father of Grand Strand Golf." He did a good job on a course that measures 6,609 yards, with the characteristically traditional style of tree-lined fairways and small greens. They didn't like to play with your head back then, and the course has been kept largely as it was designed.

Pine Lakes Country Club"Everything that's out there is right in front of you," Rubano said. "There's not a lot of trouble to get into."

That includes pin placements. With greens this small, forget the pin placement of the day and aim for the center of the green. You'll have a putt at any pin, no matter where it is that day. With a slope rating of 126, the course isn't that difficult, but it does have its moments.

The 446-yard third hole features a pond that intrudes into the middle of the fairway. It's a little more than 300 yards from the back tees, but easy to reach because the fairway slopes dramatically toward it. Your second shot is uphill to an elevated green, with deep, high-lipped bunkers. Unfortunately, this is the only hole with any real distractions; the green is near busy Highway 17.

The verdict

Pine Lakes would be a good play even without its historical significance. It isn't nearly as challenging as many courses on the Grand Strand, but you do get to use your head and most of your clubs, and there are enough risk-reward options to keep it interesting. It's a solid country club track.

Stay and play

River Oaks Golf Plantation, just to the west of the Intracoastal Waterway, is a good, centrally located place for golfers to stay. It's easy to go north or south via Highway 17, and it's close to Broadway at the Beach and the Atlantic Ocean.

They have one-, two- and three-bedroom villas, many of them overlooking the fairways of the 27-hole golf course on the property. It's also within walking distance of both Fantasy Harbour and the Waccamaw Pottery shopping complex. There are also indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis and walking trails.

Dining out

Myrtle Beach has more than 1,600 restaurants, and they aren't all fried fast food. In fact, the area has some nice eateries: Jimmy Buffett's Margaritaville, Frank's Restaurant and Bar on Pawleysw Island, Bella Napoli, Islamorada Fish Company, just to name a few. The buffet at Sea Trail Plantation is said to be excellent.

Fast fact

The clubhouse is private for the members but arrangements have been made for guest play through a "very select" group of member hotels.

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